Technique · Advanced

Knitting Nupps

A nupp (Estonian for "button") is a tiny bobble formed by knitting and purling multiple times into a single stitch on the right side, then purling all the resulting stitches together on the wrong side. The technique is used heavily in Estonian lace.

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Method (right-side row)

Into the next stitch, work: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (or however many "petals" the pattern calls for). For a 7-stitch nupp, this produces 7 stitches from one. Continue across the row.

Method (wrong-side row)

When you reach the nupp on the wrong-side row, purl all 7 nupp stitches together as a single purl stitch (p7tog). This collapses the nupp into a single stitch and makes a small "button" of yarn on the right side.

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Tension secrets

Work the nupp stitches very loosely. If the nupp stitches are tight, p7tog is impossible — the stitches will not slip together. Use a smaller needle for the nupp row to make the wrong-side decrease easier.

Visual effect

A nupp reads as a small textured "button" on the right side, surrounded by lace eyelets. Estonian patterns often cluster nupps in geometric patterns (lily of the valley, snowflakes, butterflies) for striking surface texture.

Abbreviation reference

AbbreviationMeaning
yoyarn over
kknit
p7togpurl seven together

Tips

  • Work the nupp stitches very loosely — tight nupps cannot be decreased.
  • For 7- or 9-stitch nupps, use a smaller needle for the nupp row.
  • For the easiest p7tog, use a small crochet hook to pull the yarn through all 7 stitches at once.

In depth

Nupps are the signature texture element of Estonian lace. The technique requires loose tension on the right-side increases and skilled handling of the wrong-side decrease, but the resulting surface texture is unique and dramatic.

Practice this technique on a stitch

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